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Experiences

Meghalaya, up close.

Each camp has its own days: water at Umiam, open sky at Jongksha, forest at Sakal A·duma. Around them sit the food, cloth, craft and people of the Khasi and Garo hills. Choose as much or as little as you like.

Camp by camp

Three camps. Three kinds of day.

Living Umiam

Water and light

Dawn
Kayak or paddleboard across the lake as the mist lifts. Or take the sunrise boat with breakfast on board.
Day
The MEUM museum and the naturalist-led MEUM Walk. A visit to Umden in Ri-Bhoi, where families raise and spin Eri silk.
Dusk
Dinner in the pavilion over the water, then stars from the jetty.
Living Jongksha

Wind and open sky

Dawn
A ridge run or a slow walk as the sun comes over the grass hills.
Day
Teer with local archers. A guided walk in the Mawphlang sacred forest. A full day out to the living root bridges.
Dusk
Night-glow balloons on the hilltop, telescopes, and duitara music by the fire.
Living Sakal A·duma

Forest and river

Dawn
Birding in the canopy with a naturalist, when the forest is loudest.
Day
A trek in the Nokrek biosphere, home of the wild memong narang orange. A caving day with certified guides. River tubing in season.
Dusk
A Garo kitchen supper with sticky rice cooked in bamboo, then drums and stories.

Adventure

Go further, safely.

Everything runs with licensed operators and certified guides, with safety briefings, helmets and life jackets as each activity needs.

Two hikers crossing a living root bridge over a turquoise stream in rainforest

Living root bridges

Bridges grown, not built, from the roots of rubber fig trees over generations.

Cavers with headlamps wading an underground stream in a limestone cave

Caves of the Garo Hills

Limestone passages and underground streams, explored in the dry months with expert guides.

ActivityWhereLevelBest months
Kayaking and stand-up paddleUmiam, on siteEasyAll year, weather permitting
Sunrise boat and sailingUmiam, on siteEasyOctober to May
Teer, Khasi archeryJongksha, on siteEasyAll year
Night-glow balloon eveningsJongksha, on siteWatching onlyOctober to April, calm nights
Trail running and mountain bikingJongksha, on siteModerateOctober to May
Living root bridge trekDay trip from JongkshaModerate, many stepsOctober to April
Waterfall and canyon rappellingDay tripChallengingNovember to April
Nokrek biosphere trekDay trip from Sakal A·dumaModerateOctober to April
CavingDay trip from Sakal A·dumaChallengingNovember to March, when the caves are dry
River tubing and swimsNear Sakal A·dumaEasy to moderateOctober to April
Birding and stargazingAll campsEasyNovember to March is clearest

Food and cuisine

Cooked from the hills.

Khasi and Garo cooking is smoky, herby and built on rice, pork, fish and fermented flavours. Our kitchens cook it properly, beside a full menu for every palate, with vegetarian and Jain dishes on request.

A Meghalaya tasting spread of rice, pork, fermented soybean, bamboo rice and turmeric on banana leaves and bamboo platters

The Khasi table · Umiam and Jongksha

Jadoh
Red rice cooked with meat and spices, the breakfast of the hills.
Dohneiiong
Pork in a dark, nutty black sesame gravy.
Tungrymbai
Fermented soybean, rich and pungent.
Dohkhlieh
A fresh pork salad with onion, ginger and chilli.
Pumaloi
Steamed powdered rice, eaten with curries.

The Garo table · Sakal A·duma

Nakham bitchi
A peppery broth of dried fish, the taste of the Garo Hills.
Minil songa
Sticky rice cooked inside bamboo over an open fire.
Kappa
A slow curry cooked with kalchi, a traditional alkaline water.
Chu
Garo rice beer, poured with ceremony.

From the region

Lakadong turmericKhasi mandarinMemong narangBlack sesameRed riceBamboo shootSmoked meatsForest greens
  • Market morning at Iewduh, Shillong’s great traditional market, with one of our chefs.
  • Cook-along in a village kitchen, with the recipe written down for you.
  • Chef’s table on the deck: a tasting of the Khasi and Garo hills in one evening.
Skeins of naturally dyed Eri silk yarn beside a wooden loom and a basket of cocoons

Handloom and textiles

Cloth with a story in every thread

Ryndia, the Khasi name for Eri silk, is spun from cocoons after the moth has left them, which is why it is often called peace silk. It is warm, soft and matte, and much of it comes from Ri-Bhoi, the district around Umiam.

Ryndia
Eri silk shawls and stoles, naturally dyed.
Jainsem and Dhara
The Khasi women’s dress, and its ceremonial silk form.
Tapmohkhlieh
The Khasi shawl, worn across the shoulder.
Dakmanda
The Garo wrap, woven with bright borders and motifs.
  • Spin and dye a morning with natural colours from turmeric, lac and indigo.
  • Sit at a loom with a weaver and see how a pattern is built.
  • Buy directly from the weavers you meet.

The fabric walls in every tent are hand block-printed from these Khasi and Garo patterns.

Handicraft

Bamboo, cane and wood

In Meghalaya, bamboo and cane are used for almost everything: houses, baskets, rain shields, fish traps, furniture. Our camps use the same materials, and the same hands.

Khoh
The conical carrying basket, worn from the forehead.
Knup
A rain shield of bamboo and leaves, made for the monsoon.
Cane furniture
Chairs, stools and screens, many of them in our tents.
Instruments
The Khasi duitara and the Garo drums.
  • Make a small basket or bamboo lamp in a morning workshop.
  • Visit a craft village and meet the makers.
  • Learn a rhythm on Garo drums at Sakal A·duma.
A craftsman's hands weaving a conical bamboo basket, with baskets and a leaf rain shield behind

Community

Guests of the hills.

The Khasi and Garo are matrilineal societies, with their own institutions, forests and festivals. We visit as guests, by invitation, led by the people who live there.

Sacred groves

Forests protected by Khasi communities for centuries. Walks are led by local guides, and nothing is taken out, not even a leaf.

Village days

A walk and a home-cooked lunch with a family, a visit to the village school or market, and time with elders who tell the old stories.

Root bridge keepers

The villages that grow and care for the living root bridges guide every visit, and entry fees go to them directly.

Our commitments

  • Hire and train locally at every camp.
  • Buy produce and craft from nearby villages.
  • Keep the camps free of single-use plastic, and treat water on site.
  • Share the story of each place in its own words.

As a guest

  • Ask before photographing people or homes.
  • Dress modestly in villages and at festivals.
  • Leave sacred groves exactly as you found them.
  • Carry nothing in that you would not carry out.

Festivals

Plan around a celebration.

Festivals follow local calendars, so dates move each year. Tell us your interest and we confirm the dates when you book.

MonthFestivalCommunityNearest camp
AprilShad Suk Mynsiem, the Khasi dance of thanksgiving, in ShillongKhasiUmiam
JulyBehdienkhlam, in JowaiPnar (Jaintia)Umiam or Jongksha, by day trip
October to NovemberNongkrem dance, at Smit near ShillongKhasiJongksha
NovemberWangala, the Garo harvest festival of a hundred drumsGaroSakal A·duma
DecemberChristmas in Shillong, with carols and lit-up churchesAllUmiam

Build your days.

Pick the experiences you like when you request your stay. Your host at the camp will shape them around the weather and the season.